This trip is grounded in a desire to learn more about the Vietnam War, and America’s involvement across Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia.
Travel Weekend
Flight & Overnight in Seoul
Saturday, December 20 - Sunday, December 21
First, we fly to Seoul, Korea, spend the night at a hotel at the airport, then continue on to our first stop—Vientiane, Laos.
Flight (Saturday, December 20): Delta 7836, Departs LAX: 10:50am, Arrives ICN: 5:35pm (December 21)
Hotel: Grand Hyatt Incheon, 208, Yeongjonghaeannam-ro 321beon-gil, Incheon South Korea, 400-719, Phone: +82-32-745 12 34,
Day 01
See the COPE Center & stay in Vientiane
Monday, December 22
Fly from Seoul to Vientiane
Flight: Lao Airlines QV924 , Departs ICN: 10:50am, Arrives Vientiane: 1:30pm
Tour begins! Our guide, Kham, picks up at airport and brings us to the hotel for checking in.
We transfer out to visit COPE Center, a Lao, locally-run, non-profit organization founded in 1997 to provide survivors of unexploded ordnance (UXO) with the specific care and support they require. Working in partnership with the Centre of Medical Rehabilitation and provincial rehabilitation centres, COPE facilitate access to orthotic and prosthetic devices, quality treatment and rehabilitation services for people with disabilities, hence improving their ability to participate in the communities and have a positive effect on their quality of life.
Finally, visit Patuxay Monument, well known as Victory Gate.
For dinner, we see traditional Lao dance over dinner at Kualao Restaurant.
We walk the busy night market and see stalls of fish and crickets and skewered meat. Following our guide’s lead, we buy some chewy coconut dessert treats and walk back to the hotel.
Hotel: Souphattra Heritage Vientiane, 140 Watchan Village, Quai Fa Ngum Road, Hom 5, Chanthabouly Destrict, 01000 Vientiane, Laos, +856 21 617 111, Room: Heritage Executive
Day 02
Travel to & explore Sam Neua
Tuesday, December 23
8:20am: Pickup at hotel for airport
Flight: Lao Airlines QV701, Departs VTE: 11:20am, Arrives NEU (Sam Neua): 12:20pm
12:20pm: Upon arrival in Sam Neua, we’ll meet Phommy, eat lunch at Dan Nao Meuang Xam Restaurant (which will be great food but our purveyor is super sick), visit Wat Phoxay and the Sam Neua Local market. At the market, we’ll see all kinds of local specialties, including live eel and fish and rats on skewers.
Overnight in Sam Neua. For dinner, we eat RX bars and crackers, and partake in the free Beerlao in the fridge. We watch Spirited Away and go to sleep.
Hotel: Horkeo Boutique Hotel, C27X+82, Sam Nuea, Laos, Room: Business Retreat. We might just be the literal first guests here ever!
Day 03
Vieng Xay Caves & overnight in Sam Neua
Wednesday, December 24
8am: Depart for The Vieng Xay Caves
The Vieng Xay Cave Complex is the heart of this “Hidden City,” offering an extraordinary look into Laos’ secret wartime history. During the Vietnam War, more than 480 limestone caves in the region were transformed into a fully functioning underground society. These caves served not only as homes but also as schools, hospitals, military headquarters, and even performance spaces- allowing thousands of revolutionaries and civilians to live and organize safely amidst heavy U.S. bombing.
Some of the most notable caves include the Kaysone Phomvihane Cave, which was the residence of the revolutionary leader and is preserved with furniture and items from the time. The Politburo Cave was the command center for major political decisions, giving you insight into how leadership operated underground. The Hospital Cave shows how medical care was delivered in harsh conditions, while the Art & Music Cave reveals how cultural life persisted through concerts and propaganda performances.
After the caves, we eat at a great little spot for lunch (….then stop for an hour in traffic). We head to the Hmong new year festival, a very rare opportunity to meet the Hmong tribe and see their celebrations.
We come back Sam Neua to overnight. We’ll walk to Yuni Coffee, get PB&J, toasted cheese with herbs, a pork rice bowl, some snacks and coffees (and swag), and go back to our room to hang and watch a (very) silly sci-fi movie called LIFE.
Hotel: Horkeo Boutique Hotel, C27X+82, Sam Nuea, Laos, Room: Business Retreat
Day 04
Travel to Hanoi & explore the markets
Thursday, December 25
We head to Yuni coffee in the morning for breakfast and coffee. Phommy will pick us up and we head to the airport for our flight (which will be delayed).
Flight: Lao Skyway LK233, Departs NEU (Sam Neua): 10:25am (actually noon), Arrives VTE (Vientiane): 11:30am
Flight: Lao Airlines QV-311, Departs VTE: 2:50pm, Arrives HAN (Hanoi): 3:50pm
3:50pm: Airport pickup with Jimmy and transfer to hotel.
Afternoon at leisure in Hanoi. We walk the night market and stop at Quán Cây Si for black chicken herbal soup. Shep will be adventurous and try chicken rice at a very dicey stall (with rats coming out of the kitchen!). We’ll walk to Tannin, a local wine bar, and sit and enjoy a bottle before heading back.
Overnight in Hanoi.
Hotel: The Oriental Jade Hotel, No. 92-94 Hang Trong Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam, Phone: (+84)2439367777, Hotline: (+84) 942 217 271, Room: Sapphire Old Quarter View (Double/Twin)
Day 05
In Hanoi, Visit “Hanoi Hilton,” then fly to Hoi An
Friday, December 26
Eat breakfast in Hanoi and then try egg coffee at Cafe Dinh. We walk to Banh mi Long Hoi, order a banh mi, walk to the lake and enjoy it as we watch the water. This is one of the most delicious things we’ll eat on the entire trip.
Visit Hoa Lo Prison. From National Geographic: Many US prisoners of war were incarcerated here — ironically nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ — by North Vietnamese forces. Conditions were grim; inmates suffered atrocities later described as war crimes. The prison pre-dates the Vietnam-US War, however; it was built by the French in the late 19th century. Most of it was demolished in the 1990s, but the remaining portion was converted into this museum. Exhibits include the personal effects of famous former inmates, such as the flight suit of former US presidential candidate John McCain, who was imprisoned here after his plane was shot down over Hanoi in 1967. We get bubble tea and finish up the tour.
After Hao Lo, we walk to Bún Chả Đắc Kim (Hang Manh Street), a Michelin-rated local spot with incredible bun cha and fried spring rolls.
We splurge on a massage, then enjoy a sunset cocktail at the rooftop bar.
5:45pm: Jimmy picks us up at the hotel and we head to the airport. There’s a slight ticket snafu and they almost don’t let us on the plane, but it all works out.
Flight: Vietnam Airlines Flight VN7199, Departs Hanoi (HAN): 8:45pm, Arrives Da Nang (DAD): 10:05pm
10:05pm: Airport pickup and transfer to hotel in Hoi An
We arrive in Hoi An close to midnight and check in.
Stay at Hotel Royal Hoi An Gallery, 39 Đào Duy Từ, Street, Ward, Quảng Nam 560000, Vietnam, +84 235 3950 777, Room: Grand Deluxe River View - King bed
Day 06
Drive the Hai Van Pass en route to Hue
Saturday, December 27
10am: Hotel pickup time
Our driver Than picks us up and takes us on a scenic drive through the Hai Van Pass. We stop for coffee by the water and keep driving on through the fog.
We arrive in Hue and check into the hotel.
We eat dinner at Madam Thu and get a (touristy) taste of Hue. My wine is spiked. I realize this after one sip. It’s a weird one.
At the hotel, we sit at the bar and learn some Vietnamese phrases from our great bartender.
Hotel: Azerai La Residence, , 05 Le Loi Street, Hue City, Vietnam, +84 (0) 234 3837 475, Room: Deluxe King River View
Day 07
Visit the DMZ & overnight in Hue
Sunday, December 28
7:00am: Hotel pickup time
Today, depart Hue early in the morning for a full-day excursion (ending around 6pm) to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), a region that witnessed some of the most intense battles during the Vietnam War.
Begin your journey driving along Highway 1 toward Quang Tri to visit Hien Luong Bridge and Ben Hai River, once the 17th Parallel that divided North and South Vietnam.
Continue your trip along the scenic route to Dakrong Bridge, an important point on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, before reaching Khe Sanh Combat Base near the Laotian border. Here, visit the museum and remnants of the former U.S. Marine base – a site of fierce fighting during the war.
After lunch at a local restaurant, head to Vinh Moc Tunnels, the remarkable underground village built by local people to shelter from heavy bombings. Walk through the tunnel system and learn about the villagers’ resilience and ingenuity, then emerge to enjoy the sea view at Cua Tung Beach.
Return to Hue in the late evening. We’ll eat a pre-planned set dinner at Đai Nam, which will be pretty touristy and unfortunate.
Overnight in Hue.
Hotel: Azerai La Residence, , 05 Le Loi Street, Hue City, Vietnam, +84 (0) 234 3837 475, Room: Deluxe King River View
Day 08
Fly to Ho Chi Minh City & explore
Monday, December 29
10:05am: Hotel pickup and transfer to airport
Flight: Vietnam Airlines Flight VN1371, Departs Hue (HUI): 1:05pm, Arrives Ho Chi Minh City (SGN): 2:35pm
2:35pm: Airport pickup and transfer to hotel.
We arrive at Mai House and hang at the hotel. We order a bit of lunch, because we’re exhausted. After a nap, we walk to a fantastic rooftop bar called InBetween and each have a very special cocktail.
We eat broken rice at Cơm Tấm Múc. It’s fantastic, and the restaurant focuses on the pork they import from a specific partner farm in the Netherlands.
After dinner, we Grab to the market but it’s closed. We head to a rooftop wine bar called Somm, which has a really nice staff and a great view to end the night on.
Overnight in Ho Chi Minh City.
Hotel: Mai House, Ngô Thời Nhiệm, Phường Võ Thị Sáu, Quận 3, Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam, +84 28 7303 9000, Room: Premium Room
Day 09
Visit War Remnants Museum & fly to Phnom Penh
Tuesday, December 30
We eat breakfast at the hotel, which is a fantastic (Disney-level) buffet.
We visit the War Remnants Museum. From Trip Advisor: The War Remnants Museum is a unit under the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism Ho Chi Minh City. The Museum stores more than 20,000 documents, exhibits and films.
After the museum, we head to Tao Dan Park for a noon walk, then pack and check out. For lunch, we walk to LuLi’s Kitchen, which is a small shop opened by a family still following their grandma LuLi’s recipes. We meet LuLi’s granddaughter and have a wonderful meal of pho bo, vegan spring rolls, and chicken curry.
2:30pm: Hotel pickup and transfer to airport
Flight: Air Cambodia K6-819, Departs SGN (Ho Chi Minh): 6:30pm, Arrives KTI (Phnom Penh): 7:40pm
7:40pm: Airport pickup and transfer to the hotel for check in.
We eat sushi at the hotel restaurant Hachi and call it a night.
Hotel: Sofitel Phnom Penh, 26 Old August Site Sothearos Boulevard Sangkat Tonle Bassac, 12301 Phnom Penh, Cambodia, (+855) 23 999 200, Room: Superior
Day 1o
The Killing Fields
Wednesday, December 31
Breakfast at hotel.
8:30am: Pickup at hotel and we make a quick stop at Independence monument. Ravuth tells us the story of his family’s experience during the Khmer Rouge times on our drive to the Killing Fields.
We visit the “Killing Fields” of Choeng Ek (15 km south of Phnom Penh). Between 1975 and 1978 about 17,000 men, women, children and infants (including nine westerners) were detained and tortured at the S-21 prison and transported to extermination camp of Choeng Ek.
In the afternoon, visit Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21 prison). This former school was used as a prison by Pol Pot’s security forces. More than 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the extermination camp at Choeng Ek to be executed.
We eat lunch at a great spot, and try fish amok for the first time. It’s incredible, but the day weighs on us and it’s hard to let it go.
We visit Russian Market (Toul Tumpong Market), which has Buddha images and wood carvings, betel-nut boxes, silk, silver jewelry, and classic music instruments. It’s overwhelming and touristy and we only stay for a minute.
7:30pm: Dinner reservations at Malis Phnom Penh. A truly special meal to ring in the new year. We eat suckling pig, rice with lobster, fish amok, and assorted vegetables (including the best okra we’ve ever had).
Hotel: Sofitel Phnom Penh, 26 Old August Site Sothearos Boulevard Sangkat Tonle Bassac, 12301 Phnom Penh, Cambodia, (+855) 23 999 200, Room: Superior
Day 11
Fly to Siem Reap & Tour Angkor Wat
Thursday, January 1
7:00am: Hotel pickup and transfer to airport for your flight to Siem Reap.
Flight: Air Cambodia K6-105, Departs KTI (Phnom Penh): 9:55am, Arrives SAI (Siem Reap): 10:50am
10:50am: Upon arrival, we meet our guide, Vibol! He’s amazing, Buddhist, enthusiastic, full of energy, a runner. We check in to the hotel and take a quick break.
1:00pm: Hotel pickup and visit Angkor Wat, the largest temples in world and covers an area of 200 hectares and surrounded by moat and an exterior wall measuring 1300 meters x 1500 meters.
Continue visit to Bakheng Hill: Sunset viewing on the top of the hill. Bakheng is the first major temple to be constructed in the Angkor area. This temple-mountain offers extraordinary views of the Tonle Sap and Angkor Wat. It’s SUPER crowded and after hiking (running at Vibol’s pace) up the hill, we decide not to wait in line to see the best sunset view.
Realistic Asia treats us to Phare Circus, which ends up being one of the most enriching experiences of the trip. We leave with a painting used in the show, and carefully transport it back home.
After the show, we walk the markets, but don’t really see anything appealing. We wind up getting KFC, and it’s delicious.
Hotel: Park Hyatt Siem Reap, Sivutha Blvd, Krong Siem Reap 17252, Cambodia, +855 63 211 234, Room: Park Deluxe (King Bed Deluxe)
Day 12
Angkor Thom, Banteay Srei, and Embassy
Friday, January 2
Breakfast at the hotel.
8:30am: Hotel pickup. First, we’ll visit Angkor Thom, the South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple, built from the late 12th century to the early 13th century by King Jayavarman VII and consists of 54 towers.
Heading out of town, we visit the jungle covered temple of Ta Prohm is an incredible sight. There are enormous fig trees and gigantic creepers which embrace themselves in the stone foundations of the structure giving the impression of man's creation being reclaimed by the powerful forces of nature.
Along the way we make stopover at the Preah Dark village and we follow these with a visit the Banteay Samre Temple adorned with impressive relief’s depicting scenes of Vishunu as well as Krishna legends.
We stop for lunch along the road and have grilled chicken, fish, pork and rice with our guide and driver.
We make our way by traveling on a newly paved road to the intricately carved and well preserved temple of Banteay Srei. This is the pink temple, and was a Hindu temple gifted from a courtier to the king.
For our final meal in Cambodia, we eat at Embassy, a woman-owned and operated restaurant serving traditional Khmer food. We get a chance to meet the chef, see the kitchen, and enjoy several seasonal and local Khmer dishes, including the chef’s “childhood soup,” which was warming and delicious.
Hotel: Park Hyatt Siem Reap, Sivutha Blvd, Krong Siem Reap 17252, Cambodia, +855 63 211 234, Room: Park Deluxe (King Bed Deluxe)
Day 13
Singapore & Shep’s Bday
Saturday, January 3
Breakfast at the hotel.
7:45am: Hotel pickup and transfer to the airport for your flight departure.
Flight: Singapore Airlines SQ163, Departs SAI (Siem Reap): 10:45am, Arrives SIN (Singapore): 2:15pm
We Grab to The St. Regis and check in. For Shep’s birthday, they gift us a room on the top floor with an incredible view of the city.
We walk around the large Orchard Mall and take it all in. We eat dinner at the Maxwell Food Center, a great food hawker spot, where we eat chicken rice, duck and noodles, and Xaio Long Bao.
We drink champagne at Convivial, meet and chat with the owner, Yan, who fell in love with champagne and opened the first such dedicated spot in Singapore.
At Yan’s suggestion, we head to our next spot, Native, which is an innovative cocktail house that hand crafts its own ferments and serves up Southeast Asian-inspired cocktails, with Southeast Asian spirits. Shep orders the “Chicken Rice” cocktail, which contains rice vodka, chicken garum, sesame, tomato, cucumber, distilled shoyu, calamansi, and blackened ginger. I order Kuro Koji, which comes with awamori, amazake, black koji, shikuwasa, purple sweet potato, and koregusu. It is black with a layer of koji on top and a sprout emerging through. For our next round, our bartender makes Shep his version of a Negroni, and it is delicious because it comes with an all-natural, herbal version of Campari. I order the Bambooi, a mix of 100% brown rice sake and a 20-year old aged sake. After closing out, seeing how into it we are, the team offers us a tour upstairs of their ferment operation. We promise to come back on our next visit to Singapore.
For our final stop, he head to Park 90 at the Conrad Hotel. Shep orders himself some wine, but I am not feeling well and leave him to enjoy it while I head back to get some shut-eye.
Hotel: The St. Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Rd, Singapore 247911, +65 6506 6888, Confirmation Number: 91803948, Room: Astor Room (King)
Day 14
Singapore & homeward bound
Sunday, January 4
For breakfast, we head to Wild Honey, an innovative concept that serves traditional breakfast dishes from around the world. Shep orders the Spanish breakfast, and I get a dish from Turkey.
After breakfast, we walk around the Mandarin Gallery Singapore, a mini-mall with a cozy aesthetic and a ton of beauty/aesthetic spots and salons. We taste tofu ice cream at Tofu G, and it’s honestly a revelation.
We head to Chagi airport early and hang at the SilverKris Lounge. We don’t leave enough time to see the giant Jewel waterfall, but will figure it next time.
Flight: Singapore Airlines SQ 036, Departs SIN (Singapore): 7:00pm, Arrives LAX: 6:10pm.
We make it home, pick up the pups, watch Stranger Things, and go to bed after cramming two whole days into one with the crazy time zone hop.
